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Review: Extreme Eye Rescue by Isabella Pelle

$35 for 0.5 oz$35 for 0.5 oz

One of the best wrinkle removers we’ve come across is made by Isabella Pelle - an emerging line of high end skin care & beauty. We like this brand because they use active ingredients at high concentrations and use airless bottle packaging so the active ingredients remain fresh and well, active. 

Active Ingredients:

  • Soy Rice Peptides: dramatic dark circle reducer
  • Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5: potent collagen booster and anti-wrinkle agent
  • Snap-8: Topical botox-like ingredient; reduces eye wrinkles by 63% and is 30% more effective than Argireline
  • Matrixyl 3000: potent wrinkle eraser and dermal structure rebuilder
  • Resveratrol: potent free radical scavenging antioxidant and UV damage protectant
  • Haloxyl: potent dark under eye circle lightener
  • Sesaflash: sesame seed derived next generation skin firmer and tightener
  • CoQ10: potent antioxidant
  • Lacto-Ceramides: deeply penetrating moisturizer
  • Watermelon Extract: free radical protection
  • Algae Extract: skin tightening antioxidant
  • Hyaluronic Acid: powerful humectant & anti-aging agent
  • Vitamin A (retinol): potent skin regenerator

The list of active ingredients is long and impressive. Percent concentrations of these actives are the same as those used in clinical trials. We like that! Most brands use trace amounts of active ingredients and then spend all their money marketing the fact that their product contains the ingredient - even if the amount is negligible. It’s refreshing to come across a brand that really does their homework when it comes to percent concentrations of actives that will produce results. It’s also very impressive that they use airless packaging at  this price point - something usually seen in creams priced $75+. 

The brand is very reasonably priced, especially when you compare the number active ingredients contained in this cream to other creams that contain maybe one or two actives and cost double or triple.  Another plus - its fragrance and paraben free (parabens are controversial preservatives found in most skin care products that may be linked to breast cancer).

Verdict: :) Thumbs UP!

Olay Regenerist Daily Regenerating Serum Review

$18.99 for 1.7 oz

 

$18.99 for 1.7 oz

 

Semi-decent drugstore wrinkle remover that is over-hyped and overpriced considering the low concentrations of its two active ingredients.

Active Ingredient Analysis: 

  • 2-3% Niacinamide: at this concentration can increase skin’s ceramide and fatty acid content as well as have an anti-inflammatory effect. However, for anti-aging purposes the concentration has to be at minimum 5%. 
  • <1% Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3: This ingredient can regenerate and intensely hydrate the skin - but at its concentration of less than 1% it’s hardly worth noting in this serum. 

It’s amusing that Oil of Olay has named an entire line of products after the ingredient Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 because of its ‘regenerating’ properties, yet decides to include a measly <1% concentration in their line when you need at least 3% to see results. 

There are better wrinkle remover options out there that actually include adequate concentrations of these same active ingredients plus others that are even more state of the art. 

Verdict: So-so.

DDF Wrinkle Relax Review - Doctor’s Dermatologic Formula

$88 for 0.5 oz  

 

 

$88 for 0.5 oz

DDF Wrinkle Relax is a great example of a good wrinkle remover gone bad because of its hefty pricetag and packaging.

Breakdown of Active Ingredients:

  • Palmotoyl Pentapeptide 3 (Matrixyl): Shown to reduce collagen loss.
  • Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 (Argireline): Shown to reduce the appearance of wrinkles by easing muscle contraction. 
  • Sodium Hyaluronate: Water-binding ingredient with good hydration properties.

So where does this wrinkle remover go wrong? Let’s start with the packaging. Clear packaging exposes the product to light which will oxidize the ingredients quickly. Additionally, they use a pump bottle system. Although a big improvement over jar packaging, the pump system is not airless. At this pricetag, airless packaging is expected. As such the product will still be exposed to air and oxidize, rendering the product inactive fast. 

While not a bad formulation, at this price point there is a lot that could be improved upon. There are better formulations out there that have more active ingredients and better packaging to keep those active ingredients fresh for longer - and still are priced less than a whopping $88 for 0.5 oz. Keep shopping!

Verdict: Good, but Pricey

Dr. Brandt Crease Release Review

$150 for 1.7 oz

$150 for 1.7 oz

 

Don’t let the price tag fool you, this alleged super wrinkle cream is little more than basic moisturizer with a little bit of irritant thrown in for fun. 

Dr. Brandt’s Crease Release with GABA complex claims to quickly reduce wrinkles via its star active ingredient: gamma amino butyric acid (GABA). Truth be told, GABA cannot and does not live up to these claims. 

GABA (gamma aminobutyric acid) is an amino acid synthesized in the brain that internally prevents nerves from firing. Cosmetic companies have been including GABA in their products hoping consumers will confuse the topical application of GABA with its internal function of inhibiting nerve firing. Unfortunately, GABA does not work alone to inhibit nerve firing - it needs many other substances not present in skin care products in order for it to prevent nerve firing and muscle contraction. In sum, GABA has not been proven to relax muscles and reduce the appearance of wrinkles when applied topically. 

Possible Irritant:

Eugenol: This moisturizer can actually irritate the skin because it contains Eugenol, a fragrance component that is a substance used to test for skin allergies. Eugenol wrecks havoc on the skin’s immune cells.

Save your money and spend on better formulations!

Verdict:  :( Thumbs Down!

Lancome Genifique Review: Does It Work?

Lancome Genifique Review

$78 for 1 oz.

There has been much hype surrounding Lancome’s launch of Genifique - a new serum that promises to “reactivate” the youth in your genes using gene therapy technology. Lancome’s Genifique, which flaunts gene research in its very name, has raised quite a few eyebrows in the scientific community. Scientists are worried companies are using gene therapy as a marketing tool way before the science has matured enough to be able to meet customer expectations and produce results. If consumer expectations aren’t met, gene therapy funding may be compromised in the future, possibly hindering the advancement of one of the most promising fields of research today. 

In any case, here is our analysis of Genifique:

A breakdown of the “active ingredients”:

  • Bio-Lysat (bifida ferment lysate): This is a type of bacteria found in the digestive system. It has no known effect on skin when applied topically.
  • Hepes (hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid): This ingredient is a buffering agent, perhaps intended to reduce irritation from other ingredients. 
  • Phystosphingosine-SLC (Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine):  Their ’star’ active ingredient. A study, published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, suggests that salicyloyl-phytosphingosine (SP), when topically applied to the face, reduces the depth of wrinkles and improves skin texture in photoaged skin. However, this study was funded by Degussa, the same company that developed the ingredient. Since we could find no independent studies to verify these claims, the jury is out on this ingredients efficacy. Lastly, the ingredient is not included at a very high concentration. 

 

Possible Skin Irritants:

Denatured Alcohol: Denatured alcohol is extremely drying and irritating to the skin, and can also cause free-radical damage.  This is the #4 ingredient in Genifique. We believe this may be why many users are experiencing severe dryness and acne after using this product for a few days. It does not make sense to have this ingredient in a serum intended to prevent aging - this has certainly left us scratching our heads. 

Veracity of Claims:

Genifique claims to work by reactivating our ‘youth’ genes. It is important to note that just because a gene seems to be less active in aged skin does not mean that acting on that gene will prevent wrinkling. Additionally, the only active ingredient worth investigating further has one small study done by the manufacturer of said ingredient. There is an obvious conflict of interest there and more research is needed to back up this ingredient. 

All in all, Lancome’s Genifique seems to be a lot of hype and very little substance. There are better wrinkle remover options out there that include time proven active ingredients and lack irritating ingredients. The amount of denatured alcohol in this serum alone is enough to opt for something better. You’re paying a lot of money for an unproven active ingredient mixed with a good amount of skin irritant. Best to spend your money elsewhere. 

Verdict: :( Thumbs down!